embroidery thread or silk

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

An embroidery silk thread consisting of singles doubled into threads and these doubles again doubled to form a strong thread. In the first doubling 2, 3, 4, or more singles may be twisted together.

This type of work is very durable and is done with washable materials. The design is drawn on ecru linen or fine cotton cloth, the outlines are run over with ecru thread, then with ecru silk and button hole stitches. The parts of the pattern are connected with bars and wheels. The ecru linen is cut away where no pattern is formed and the work is attached to coloured silk or velvet as desired.

A Spanish embroidery done on fine white linen, with black silk and gold thread, at times, for added ornament.

A variety of embroidery resembling cloisonne produced at Delhi, India. The outline of the design, consisting usually of flowers and foliage, is done in gold thread and the pattern is filled in with bright-coloured silk. Used for screens, table covers, etc.

Half-twisted needlework silk thread, used during the first half of the 19th century for embroidery work on slippers, bags, and canvas pictures. It was the most brilliant silk obtainable at that time.

An ancient thread formed by twisting gilded catgut around a silk or flax core and used for embroidery work.

A variety of exquisite needlework, practised by the natives of India, Persia, China and Japan. Coloured pieces of cloth are cut in handsome designs and sewn together with floss silk or gold and silver thread. The work is really inlaid applique.

A form of applique work using gold or silver cloth and serge. A bold design is traced on the gold or silver cloth, this is cut out and placed upon thick canvas and the two pasted together. The canvas is then cut out to the pattern when the paste is dry. These motifs are then stitched on to a ground fabric of wool serge with silk thread. Stems, sprays and small effects are worked in between the applique motifs.

Persian needlework of couched silk or gold thread.

Stịck|garn embroidery thread or silk

subst. embroidery cotton, embroidery wool, embroidery yarn subst. embroidery thread, silk thread, embroidery silk

[ri'kamo]

The French term for the ravelled silk obtained as waste from cocoons. Forms the commercial spun silk raw material and is the best grade of waste silk (see Spun Silk) ———————— A soft embroidery thread made of silk waste or floret silk. It is also used for fabric for dresses as well as knitting. Also known as Bourne de Soil, or grogram yarn.

Cotton muslin, hand embroidered by Mohammedan women in their leisure time. Figures are stamped on the cloth by small wood blocks in fugitive colour, and after being embroidered the colour is washed out. The cotton and silk thread are distributed by merchants and the finished work collected later. The embroidery thread is coloured silk and white cotton. Also known as Kasida.

adj. Włók. [apaszka, bielizna, przędza] silk attr.

m 1. (zwinięty luźno) hank; (na szpulce) skein; (kulisty) ball 2. (szpulka) reel, spool; (w maszynie, krośnie) bobbin

A very rich gold or silver embroidery in Payale and Surat, India, used principally on large costly articles, such as cushions of state, elephant trappings, etc. The silk velvet or cloth used as foundation is stretched tight on a wooden frame. The design is first filled in or padded, with long stitches of yellow silk to make the gold embroidery stand out. Over this the gold or silver thread is couched down. Where the entire surface is to be covered with metal thread the ground is worked with herringbone effect. Variety is obtained by changing the direction of the metal thread and by employing higher relief on some parts than on the others. The principal subdivisions are: - (1) Kasabtiki, executed with gold or silver thread and spangles, done especially in Surat. (2) Jhikchalak, executed -with two-fold heavy gold or silver thread, each ply of which shows a corkscrew-like effect. (3) Charat-Karachi, so-called because it imitates the Karachi work by using cardboard for winding to give raised effect to the design. (4) Jhiktiki, is a combination of the thread in No. 2 with gold or silver spangles. (5) Chalak-Tiki, similar to No. 4. This embroidery is done on the frame. When done in hand stitches it is known as Reshami Bharat Kam.

The French term for thread or fibre. Fil au chinois - Waxed linen thread for sewing. Fil de crin - A heavy silk yarn (see Cordonnet). Fil d'emballage - Coarse pack thread. Fil d'ecosse - Cotton thread. Fil d'epreuve - A French-made linen fabric, in blue and white stripes or checks. Fil de Florence - Silkworm gut used for fishing lines. Fil de Japon - Reeled silk, from 3 to 15 filaments. Fil plat - French cotton yarn, bleached and used for embroidery. Fil re sayette - Combed wool doubled yarns, hard twisted for fabrics and slack twisted for knitting. Sometimes silk is mixed with the wool. Fil an Tonkinois - A very strong waxed linen thread used for heavy work. Fil de trace - A double thread used for outlining designs in applique or point lace fabrics.

Lace was originally a heavy texture more like embroidery and of two kinds, Lacis or "darned netting" and Cutwork. Laces, often worked in gold threads and coloured silks was also called " spiderwork." Lace is purely an English word, derived from the Anglo-Norman lacier, to lace, bind, tie or fasten, etc. The word appears to have been first used in 1519. It is a fabric of open mesh or net formed by crossing and intertwining threads. Lace was originally purely a hand craft, but today it is machine made as well. There are three main classes: - Point lace, pillow lace and machine-made lace. Point Lace - When the term " Point " is applied to a lace fabric it should mean that the lace has been made by the needle with a single line of thread, but it is now given to many machine-made laces. There are numerous laces sold as point laces and each has some feature not possessed by any other, many of these laces are known by the town where they are manufactured. Pillow Lace - These laces are made by intertwining threads on pins fixed in a cushion over a pattern fastened on to the cushion. Many pillow laces are part hand and part machine made such as Honiton, Valenciennes, Irish, etc. Machine-made Laces - There are three principal classes which can be placed (1) warp fabrics; (2) plain nets; (3) Levers' laces. Warp Laces - This is the earliest form of lace produced on a machine which was the invention of the Rev. William Lee in 1589, and was an adaption of the stocking frame. A warp lace is a series of upright threads that twist upon each other to form a fabric. There are no crossing threads. They are made in widths up to 10-in. and are the cheapest laces made. Plain Nets - John Heathcote, the inventor of the bobbin-net machine in 1809, laid the foundation of the machine-made lace trade. These are formed by a diagonal bobbin thread intertwining with the upright warp threads so that when the web is taken off the machine the mesh is honeycomb shaped. Other shapes followed, such as the square mesh. Cotton, silk, mohair and rayon are all used in making plain nets. Standard plain nets are as follows: - Brussels Net - Close mesh, specially selected fine yarns, in widths 36-in. to 80-in. The mesh varies up to 20 holes per inch. Both stiff and soft finish. Mosquito Net - Made in many qualities and closeness of mesh and from 54-in. to 108-in. Cable Net - Made up to 300-in. wide and from coarser yarns than other laces. This fabric is used as the ground fabric for curtains, etc. Bretonne Net - A very fine fabric, close mesh and finer yarns than Brussels, very soft and smooth finish. Point d'esprit - Fabrics with spots at regular distances. The yarns are not as good a quality as Brussels. Finished both soft and stiff. Paris Nets - Very stiff finish, used by the millinery trade for foundation work. Illusion Nets - A star-shaped mesh fabric, very fine yarns, used for veils and evening dress purposes. Silk Mechlins, or Tulles - A net more round than square in mesh and made from fine silk yarns. Malines is a tulle made in Belgium. Chantilly, or Silk Brussels - Similar to Brussels, but made from black dyed silk yarns. Chambray Nets - A finer all silk net than Chantilly. Levers' Lace Fabrics - These are various fancy laces and are produced on the lace machine fitted with a jacquard. Samuel Draper of Nottingham combined the jacquard with the lace machine in 1813. John Levers invented the machine. Varieties of these laces are Cluny laces. Torchons, Maltese lace. All-overs and numerous others.